Its film transport started acting strange, and it makes strange noises. There are times when it would refuse to work, and I’d have to power it off and wait a few minutes. At that rate, the scanner should pay for itself within a year while providing superior scans.Īfter two years, my PrimeFilm scanner is starting to show wear. My shooting rate is currently about four rolls per month or about $50 on top of what I’d pay for processing at a mediocre scan quality. I've heard of Topaz Denoise AI working decently? Is that worth investing in? For reference, this roll of film is like 35 years old.Your lab may charge you anywhere between $5 and $30+. I tried doing some noise reduction in Lightroom, it helps a little bit, but difficult to keep it from washing out details. I thought about trying a positive scan in Nikon Scan so i can get the benefit of the good color conversion of Negative Lab Pro, but after some google searching and reading on the NLP forum I'm at a bit of a loss on what the proper settings are for positive scanning of negatives in Nikon Scan. It's a matter of opinion, the Nikon scan isn't actually better, just different. It's a dirty mirror, not sure why that would cause a difference between apps though. This is sensor noise, that Vuescan is somehow not able to compensate for as a 3rd party program. This is film grain, Nikon Scan just isn't seeing it for some reason This is just how Vuescan is, no way around it What might I be seeing here? options i can think of: The Nikon Scan was done with 1X sampling, so no special features enabled. I did scans with grain reduction on in both programs, didn't make much difference, so neither of these images have grain reduction turned on. Both have the lightest amount of infrared dust/scratch removal applied during the scan, and nothing else. Attached is a side by side view in Lightroom, the left photo (IMG_03052.tif) is from Nikon Scan, the right (raw0005.dng) is from Vuescan. I get great color and exposure results this way, but the noise appears to be much more pronounced than with Nikon Scan, one the same shot. As an alternative, I've been using Vuescan, scanning in positive mode with a RAW output, and doing the inversion in Lightroom with Negative Lab Pro. I've been using the Nikon Scan software (in negative mode) mostly, because it usually seems to provide good results, but I've come across a few images recently where the color reproduction is off, or the exposure is such that the Nikon software isn't able to get a hand on it. Hello everyone! I've been working my way through a bunch of old family photos, originally with a Coolscan V ED, and now a 5000 for this specific image, and I've hit a bit of a snag.
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